By contrast, most split system heat pumps (mini splits and regular ducted split heat pumps work to near or much below 0F.

I found this discussion online where Deizel_Dave discussed modifying his portable heat pump by relocating its outdoor air temperature sensor from the air intake path to indoors to prevent the unit from turning off heating, causing it to continue function in temperatures much below 40F. The only issue he observed was that the condensate output increased when running the portable heat pump at very low temperatures.

I wanted to give it a try. If it didn’t work, my plan was just to put the sensor back in its original location. I estimated that if the unit then would heat with outdoor temperatures down to 32F I’d be able to greatly extend its use as a heater.

My Unit(s)

Whynter NEX Inverter Portable Air Conditioner & Portable Heater ARC-1230WNH

Results

It Works! So far, I have tested it to an outdoor temperature of 10F, and it still heats! On a couple of nights when the outdoor temperature dipped to 25F, I used a Kilowatt meter to compare the energy draw of the heat pump with an electric space heater, and even with those low temperatures, the heat pump put out more heat and used less than half the energy compared with the electric space heater.

Like all heat pumps in heating mode, their efficiency decreases with decreasing outdoor temperatures. The colder it gets, the less heat it produces, but it still puts out a surprising amount of heat, even at 10F.

Convinced of its effectiveness, I bought a second portable heat pump for downstairs. The “portable” unit is very heavy and bulky. It is easy to wheel it from room to room but a beast to get up and down stairs (77lb, oddly shaped with thin, vulnerable outside cabinet components which could break if supported incorrectly while lifting or moving with a hand truck). This second purchase was prompted by the mini split heat pump in the house’s addition failing due to running low on refrigerant during a prolonged deep cold wave (several weeks). The portable heat pump enabled me to heat the addition to the 70s during a day in the low 40s, in order to run the mini split in A/C mode to recharge it.

Warning

• I expect doing this will void your warranty
• This will cause your unit to operate outside its intended parameters and possibly shorten its life or damage it. (Although I have not observed adverse effects yet)
• Although it has been working fine so far, there may be conditions or situations where this might cause problems I am unaware of.
• I am reporting what I did and what happened. If you do it, it is at your own risk.
• I have seen reports that my unit is a rebranded Midea unit. The tests I did are on this specific Whynter unit, and I have no way of knowing if you can extrapolate these results to other units.

How Much Condensate?

Our main ducted HVAC system results in a temperature difference of several degrees between the upstairs and downstairs. Also, the main systems thermostat has a nightly setback temperature to save energy. The first unit only gets light use. It is in an upstairs bedroom as a supplement to heating and cooling. Both the upper and lower drain hoses are directed to a 1 gallon Arizona Ice Tea plastic bottle. Under these conditions practically no condensate drains to the bottle.

The second unit used as the only heater in the addition, running continuously with daytime temperatures around 35 and nighttime temperatures around 23 produced about 1 quart (1 liter) of condensate in 3 days. The portable heat pump had no difficulty heating this 400 sq ft area.

How to Move the Outdoor Temperature Sensor

The post Portable Heat Pump Mod For Subfreezing Weather appeared first on Arnold Solof.

The thermometer is well made. Constructed of stainless steel it should not corrode when exposed to moist soil. I tested its accuracy comparing it to several other thermometers and it was accurate. It equilibrates/stabilizes after just a couple of minutes when moved to a new location.

Accuracy

Determining the Probe Sensing Area

I did the above experiment to determine what part of the probe was the active sensing portion of the thermometer. I found that it wasn’t the tip of the probe or the entire probe, but instead was the distal/last 2 inches of the probe. Therefore, if you want a reading at a specific depth you should insert the probe at a depth 1 inch greater than that you want to measure so that the last 2 inches of the probe are centered at your target depth (1 inch above and 1 inch below target depth). If you were to insert it only 1 inch deep then 1 inch of the sensing portion of the probe would be reading air temperature.

Other Options

After getting the thermometer I began to wonder if people provide this information via something like a weather report and guess what? They do. Here is a report from Rutgers on New Jersey Soil Temperatures:

https://www.njweather.org/maps/nj-statewide-soil-temperatures-10cm

You can view the report at 5cm, 10cm, 20cm and 50cm depths at various location around New Jersey. The same type of report is available for pretty much anywhere. Below is a sample report at 5cm (2 inches) depth on 3/16/2019.

Still, it doesn’t hurt to have your own thermometer because there are local variations due to differences in shading, wind exposure, etc. If you have your own outside thermometer or rain gauge you know what I mean.

Below is a video review of this thermometer I uploaded to my YouTube channel “Arnold Solof”.

Conclusions

The thermometer works well and helps you time gardening tasks to allow you to get the most bang for your buck from the products you purchase and optimizing the results for your gardening efforts.

It is available on Amazon but its price fluctuates widely between 15 and 25 dollars. I paid about $20 for mine.

The post Stainless Steel Soil Thermometer by Smart Choice Review appeared first on Arnold Solof.

Clatterans saw my post on the repair of the stuck refrigerator water filter and asked me to review their water filter ULTRAWF. I said “sure”, but send me 2 filters because I want to cut one open to see how it is built and compare it with the previous filter. The 2 filters arrived the other day and my Frigidaire refrigerator just notified me that it was time to replace the filter so I replaced it with the Clatterans filter.

The filter my refrigerator uses and what I am reviewing is Model # Frigidaire ULTRAWF .

Most of the review is in the accompanying video, but I’ll add notes and comments to this blog post as I receive feedback.

Notes:

• The thickness of the carbon layer is 13 mm
• Upon opening the filter I first thought that the direction of water flow would be from the center out. Upon further thought, it makes more sense that it be from the outside in. This is because while filtering particles/sediment out of the water, they will gradually accumulate on the filter progressively blocking it. Since the outer surface area is far greater than the inner surface area, it is preferable for the particle accumulation to occur on the outer surface so that the filter doesn’t become clogged prematurely.

Conclusions:

The filter is well constructed.  It installs easily by just pushing it in until it clicks.  To remove it, you push it in again to release the lock and let it spring back out.  I was especially vigilant about that given my experience with another company’s filter (See this post). You can’t go wrong with this filter. The only question is whether it is a good deal. It is a bargain at its current sale price of $59.99 for 3 filters with free shipping. However, it says on their website “Was: $129.99”, which would make it at least as expensive as the brand name Frigidaire water filters.

The post Clatterans Refrigerator Water Filter – Review appeared first on Arnold Solof.

I bought one of these for a trip to Italy.

The price was $27.99 on Amazon 

Features:

• 1875 Watt rating (at 125V, 15A)
• UK/AU/EU/IT plug adapters included 
• 3 AC Outlets (standard USA)
• Input AC110-250V, 15A, 60Hz
• 4 USB ports (5V, a total of 4.5A shared across all 4 ports) (0 – 2.4A per port)
• Cable = 6 feet (1.8M)

I have used this now in both Rome and Florence Italy.  My family of 4 with our PC’s, tablets, and cell phones are traveling together. We have at least 3 devices that can benefit from higher amperage USB charging (Fire Tablet HD 10, iPhone 7+, and Galaxy S8+ and can be charged quickly using these USB ports.  If you need to draw more than 4.5 amps simultaneously, then the charging would slow down, but in practice, this hasn’t happened yet.  (Not all of our USB devices draw 2 amps.)

The 6-foot cord is thick, heavy, and stiff.  I found it necessary to bend the cord to shape it so that the power strip would rest securely on a table.

This does not convert from 220 volts to 110 volts, so if your devices require 110 volts you will need a separate converter for that.

This can also be used in the USA a regular 110-volt power strip with 4 USB ports.

In Italy, I used the included 3 round prong outlet adapter to plug the power strip into the wall.

If you anticipate the need to plug a combination of non-USA and USA devices into the strip, don’t get this model because the 3 outlets are standard USA outlets and would require a foreign adapter for each foreign device you wanted to plug into it.

The title of the device says it is also a surge protector, but there is nothing on the device labeling it as such.  Therefore, I conclude this is mislabeled and it is a non-surge protected power strip.

It has worked out well for me during this trip.  I can recommend the unit, but again, remember it is not a surge suppressor as stated on the listing title.

The post PRITEK 3 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with 4 USB Port + Travel Plug Adapters – Review appeared first on Arnold Solof.

“Delta Shower Doors SD3276457 Linden 48″ X 70″ Semi-Frameless Traditional Sliding Shower Door in chrome with Rain Glass”

Our previous shower door was nearly 40 years old and looked pretty bad from a mixture of dirt and corrosion.  I erroneously thought the door was an integral part of the built-in shower and that we would have to replace the entire shower unit to do anything about the door.  Then I looked at it closer and Googled it and realized the door is separate from the built-in shower and is replaceable.  I found a comparable door, available both at Home Depot and Amazon for under $300, so we decided to replace it.

Since Amazon shipping was free, that was preferable to lugging the heavy door home in my little Prius.

Old Door Removal

The first step was to remove the old door.

1. Lift the glass panels off their tracks and remove them
2. Unscrew the side panels from the wall
3. Remove the top frame
4. Remove the bottom frame
5. Remove all the old caulk.  This was the most time-consuming step.   To be sure the new caulk will seal properly you should be meticulous here.

New Door Installation

1. Using a dime as a template, Round the bottom corners of the side panels (if needed) so they sit flush with the bottom of the shower door opening.  If yours are square, skip that step.
2. Drill holes in the shower wall to accommodate the side panels.  Put screw anchors in the holes.  Cover any unused old holes with silicone caulk.
3. Install the side panels deciding whether the keep the short side or long side of the side panels facing out (depending on the width of your door space.
4. Measure the top frame from wall to wall at the top and cut it to that length.
5. Measure the bottom frame length from the inside of the left side frame to the inside of the right side at the bottom of the shower door frame and cut the bottom frame to that length.
6. Put the vinyl sealing strip in its groove on the bottom frame and trim the edges flush.
7. Run a bead of silicone caulk (I used GE Silicone II + anti mildew – Clear) along the bottom groove of the bottom frame and put the bottom frame in place.  I needed to put a weight on the center of it because the bottom of my shower was not perfectly flat.  Allow the silicone to dry 24 hours.
8. Install the side panel bumpers
9. Put the top frame on.  Verify the top frame is level.  (If it isn’t perfectly level, the glass panels will run “downhill” by themselves banging into the side panel.  I did not have mine perfectly level and I now regret that.
10. Install the top frame inserts on each side.
11. Install the rollers on the glass panels being sure to include the vinyl glass protectors and hole inserts.  Don’t overtighten.
12. Install the glass panels on the shower by lifting the rollers above the track and setting them back down on the track.  Be sure to keep the bottom of the panels inside the lip of the lower frame.
13. Drill holes for the bottom door divider and install it.
14. Install the shower door handles.
15. Run a bead of silicone around both the inside and outside perimeters of the shower frame/shower junction.  I used painters tape to keep the silicone application neat and clean

Issues

As stated before, my top track was not completely level and both doors would slide to the right spontaneously.  The roller brackets have adjustments for sightly raising or lowering the top edges of each panel.  They are primarily for adjusting the alignment of the door with the side panels and don’t change any downhill slope of the top frame.  Also, there is a known issue with that adjustment in that you can only adjust to the higher hole.  If you use the lowest of the 3 holes the bracket will rub along the top frame.  I called Delta support about that and they sent me replacement roller brackets but the replacements were missing the vinyl protectors for the glass.  One of the panel’s spontaneous sliding was fixed by lowering one side on the panels side because in that position it slightly rubbed the vinyl insert, causing a slight friction which prevented the spontaneous sliding of the door.  The other one really isn’t that bad and I may either leave it as it is or provide some mechanism of slight friction for the other door.

The post Delta Shower Doors SD3276457 – Review appeared first on Arnold Solof.

Review:

I needed a replacement light bulb for my oven.  I bought a GE 40 watt appliance bulb from Ace Hardware, but that bulb burned out within 2 days.  I thought that must have been a fluke, so I bought a second GE 40 watt appliance bulb, but the same thing happened.  I did handle the GE bulbs with nitrile gloves, so I didn’t leave skin oil on them causing them to burn out prematurely.

Frustrated, I looked on Amazon and found the SooFoo appliance light bulbs.  I ordered them.  They have 300 degrees Centigrade printed on the bulb (572 degrees Fahrenheit).  They come in a package of 4 bulbs for $12 ($3 per bulb).  I installed one several months ago and it has been working since then. The bulb even survived the 3-hour high-temperature oven self-cleaning cycle (as it should). I have no idea what the problem was with the GE bulbs but I am glad to have a functioning bulb in my oven.

The post SooFoo Appliance Light Bulb – Review appeared first on Arnold Solof.

I have an old 10-gallon Shop-Vac, Genie Model # SV300Q which needed a filter for dry use operation.  I ordered this Shop-Vac 903-03-19 Genie Vac Filter from Amazon for $15.95.  Some reviewers stated it would fit my model.

The filter is very large and pleated having a huge surface area to maximize airflow.

Genie Shop-Vac Model # SV300Q

Black Retaining Cap on Left, Shop-Vac 903-03-19 Genie Vac Filter on the right.

Black Cap removed from Shop-Vac. The filter won’t fit on Shop-Vac if the black cap is removed.

Foam filter with retaining ring (for wet applications)

I removed the foam filter and retaining ring and black cap insert from my shop-vac and tried to place the new filter on but it would not fit.  I put the black cap insert back on the shop-vac (without the retaining ring used for the foam filter).  Now the new filter slid on snugly.  I don’t have the manual for the shop-vac and I only used it over the years to vacuum water so I didn’t realize exactly how to do this.  You need that black cap thing to retain the ball, anyway.

I tested the vacuum and the suction was very strong.

I am using a modified dust collection bag on it as well so as to protect the new filter from getting quickly clogged with fine sawdust.  Now if they only made a dustbag that would fit it without modification.  If anyone knows of one, please let me know.

The post Shop-vac 903-03-19 Genie Vac Filter appeared first on Arnold Solof.

This is a review and demonstration of (a sort of “how to” video) of the above vacuum cleaner. Most of the information is included in the linked-to YouTube video.  One of our vacuum cleaners “died” and I had been looking for a replacement.

Vacuum Cleaner Search Criteria:

• Works well
• Cleans effectively
• Versatile
• Reasonably priced
• Excellent reviews

I finally decided on this unit.  It cost me $129.99 on Amazon.  At the time of this writing, the price is $169.99.  I don’t know if I lucked out on a Cyberweek special or the price just varies a lot.  The unit satisfies my criteria well.  When I first got it, it was a bit confusing because of all the parts and attachments.  I made the video to help others decide if it is right for them and as a “Quickstart Guide” for those who bought it to supplement the printed instructions that come with the vacuum cleaner.

Can I please have a YouTube video?

Conclusion:

I do recommend the unit.  I cannot yet attest to its durability as I just got it, but having read many other reviews, I expect it to last a long time.

Final thoughts:

I found myself thinking about my maternal grandfather who went door-to-door selling Electrolux vacuum cleaners for a few years after his South Jersey chicken farm got wiped out from psittacosis. Now, here I am, reviewing vacuum cleaners …

Unit on Amazon

The post Shark Rotator Professional Lift-Away Upright Vacuum, (NV501) appeared first on Arnold Solof.

Cabin Air Filter on Amazon ($8.87)

Procedure:

• Open lower glovebox.
• Push one side inward while pulling out to release tab.
• Do the same for the opposite side.
• It is enough to lower and tilt the box downward without completely removing it to access the air filter.
• Pull the right tab on the filter cover to release it, then remove the filter cover.
• Remove the old filter (note it’s orientation with the arrow facing forward and pointing up).
• Insert the new filter (same orientation).
• Replace the filter cover snapping the right tab in place to lock it.
• Reinsert the glovebox tabs one side at a time.

In my case, the plunge rod on the right fell out (an “oh shit” moment).  It took me a little while to figure out how to put that back on.

Tabs on filter cover circled in red.

Shows where the plunge rod goes if it falls off and you need to put it back.

Shows dirt trapped in the old air filter.  Better there than in your lungs.

Toyota says to replace this filter every 30000 miles or every 3 years.

EPAuto recommends that it be replaced every 12000 miles or every 12 months.

The post Replace 2010 Prius Cabin Air Filter appeared first on Arnold Solof.

Engine Air Filter on Amazon Costs $8.87.

Procedure:

• Pull the 2 clips circled in red to the side.
• Lift off the filter cover.
• Remove the old filter
• Insert the new filter
• Place the cover back on.
• Pull the 2 clips to the center locking the filter cover.

The entire procedure takes about 1 minute.

Toyota recommends replacing the engine air filter every 30,000 miles or every 3 years (whichever comes first)

EPAuto recommends that it be replaced every 12,000 miles.

The post Replace 2010 Prius Engine Air Filter appeared first on Arnold Solof.